And now the end of our trip. We made it through three countries in 2 months (Mongolia, Russia, and Turkey), and now for the last month we'll spend time in Greece. Back when we were planning our trip, Richard and I thought it might be a good idea to work on an olive farm on the island of Evia, north of Athens. Our flight from Turkey got into Athens at 6pm, however, so we then decided to spend one day exploring Athens before heading out to the farm. We stayed right next to the Agora, in the Phidias Hotel on a popular cafe street.
Our first night we explored the cafe street and some of the Plaka, the historic center of Athens. We ate at a tiny restaurant and discovered how cheap wine is! ½ liter of red wine for 3 euros! We ate moussaka and fish along with our wine. We continued to stroll along the lit-up streets and slowly made our way back to the hotel.
Welcome to Athens!
3 euro wine and moussaka
Hadrian's Gate at night. Hadrian built a shit load of stuff.
The next day we got up early to see the Acropolis before it got too touristy. Well, we later found out, that was not a problem. It's December now, so there were barely any tourists there. We saw the Odeon of Heracles, the Theater of Dionysus, the Parthenon (naturally), and the Propylaea (entrance gate). We found the Acropolis to be slightly interesting. It's been in Athens for as long as Athens has been around. Control of the city changed hands with the Persians and Ottomans. They both disregarded the Acropolis; the Ottomans blew it up when they used it for munitions storage. It wasn't until the 1880's and 1890's that the Germans began to excavate and partly restore the Acropolis. And it wasn't until the 80's or 90's when Greek teams began to plan massive restoration projects to build the monuments back up to what they used to look like.
After spending many days looking at ruins in Turkey, the Acropolis was actually not as breathtaking as it probably should have been. The ruins in Turkey began to be excavated in the 1920's, and they were all underground, so much better preserved than the Parthenon. Plus, by that time, people thought ancient ruins were interesting and efforts to excavate and restore were underway. So, for us, we found the ruins in Turkey to be much more interesting, at least to look at, than the ruins of the Acropolis. They were better preserved by being underground, and they didn't have years and years of exposure to the elements. The ruins in Turkey also weren't used as munitions dumps that blew up twice.
Odeon of Herakles, Temple of Dionysus, stairs to the Propylaea
After we saw the Acropolis, we went to look at Hadrian's Gate and the Temple of Olympian Zeus. The Temple reminded us of the Temple of Artemis in Turkey. The Artemis one was a wonder of the ancient world, but now there is just one column standing and a bunch of rocks lying around. The Temple of Zeus has 6 columns standing and a bunch of rocks lying about. We did enjoy this temple more, because the area around the columns is completely empty. From a distance it looks very majestic, and up close the columns are highlighted by the open space.
Emily making a face and me in front of the Temple of Olympian Zeus.
For lunch, we ate at a cafe outside (eating outside in December...Yes!!), where we again discovered the cheapness of Greek wine. After that, we made our way to Larissa Station, the train station, to see if we could buy tickets to get out to the farm for the next day. They said only day-of tickets, so we walked to another ruins site. The ticket you buy to see the Acropolis also includes the Zeus temple, Hadrian's Library (which we didn't see), the Agora (also didn't see), and the Kerameikos. The Kerameikos, we found out, was actually a large graveyard and burial place. Everything we walked on once was a grave. OOOoooooh! They had a small museum that contained artifacts from the tombs, like pottery, metal works, and coins. But by this time we were tired and tired of looking at ruins. So we went to a cafe near our hotel and relaxed until dinner.
These guys were everywhere.
Graffiti like this was everywhere
The Kerameikos
The street next to our hotel on the weekends turns into a flea market of sorts. People are there selling “antiques”, books, jewelry both hand-made and not, and other assorted goods. It was fun to see the things people were selling, and relaxing to walk along the street and do some window shopping. If there is one thing we learned from this trip, it's that traveling for more than 2 weeks is tiring and you relish the times when you can relax and enjoy not doing the touristy things.
For dinner, we ate at Kuzina, a restaurant that apparently was featured in the Michelin Guide. They had a set menu, which was phenomenal. Salad with special cheese from an island (tasted like a mix of feta and goat cheese), cheese and spinach dumplings with a pomegranate sauce, pork that had been marinated for half the day, and tagliatelle pasta with wild mushrooms and truffles. They served a very tasty chocolate mousse for dessert.
The next day, we headed out for Halkida and the olive farm.
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